By Stana Luxford Oddie
I excitedly awoke before my alarm. I could hear the buzz of the Tokyo early morning traffic from my hotel window. The day had finally arrived. I am grateful to Keiko, one of the Okutama secretariat (office) staff, for setting up my special day of Shinrin-yoku. Today would be my last full day in Japan. I packed my belongings and silently headed to my almost two-hour, train ride to the village of Okutama, which is considered a part of Tokyo. I could feel my shoulders drop with a sense of ease as more trees appeared, then eventually beautiful, forested mountainsides and neatly tended villages.
I arrived at Okutama with time to put on my layers and raingear, as the forecast was 100% precipitation. I was grateful that the Forest Therapy Base team kindly agreed to offer the Shinrin-yoku experience rain or shine. I was met by a widely smiling Takeshi Shirata, one of the other secretariat staff who offer support and much at the Okutama Forest Therapy Base. He offered such wonderful hospitality, taking my pack and providing a quality clear umbrella.
He ushered me to a sheltered spot with a neatly set up portable table where my blood pressure and pulse were measured and documented as the preliminary health check. I was provided with a special little card printed with my name on it where my health check was documented, as well as the schedule for the day. My blood pressure was very high at the first reading (147/84 and pulse 67), as I was super excited to be in Japan at a Forest Therapy Base about to have a taste of Shinrin-yoku. I have been a trained Association of Nature and Forest Therapy Guide (ANFT) since 2016 (cohort 6), and trainer since 2018! For almost a decade, I have been talking about how the ANFT practice is inspired by the practice of Shinrin-yoku in Japan where health checks are conducted before and after the walk and after as a measure of the physiological effects of spending time in the forest; and now I was experiencing a health check in Japan. I have never been more excited to get my blood pressure and pulse measured! Takeshi kindly allowed for a second blood pressure and pulse check since my excitement had given a high reading. The second time around was more reasonable (121/79) and (pulse 66). Takeshi scooped up the blood pressure machine and table, and tucked it all in the vehicle and off he went.
Fumi Suzuki, a certified Okutama Town Guide and certified Forest Therapist trained by the Forest Therapy Society took care to orient me to our intended route on the map. She reviewed the schedule, where we were set to depart from, the Okutama Train Station, and walk in the village to the Hikawa River Valley up to Station 1 for lunch. Fumi offered a thorough introduction to honour the people, the land and the history of the town of Okutama, from its well-known reputation for wasabi production, as well as acknowledging the Okutama Industrial Hikawa Cement Factory, the reason for which there is a train to Okutama.
Fumi shared that, for our Shinrin-yoku experience, she would be offering cues to my five senses throughout our time to support relaxation and presence. We started off by giving ourselves, what I have come to know over time in my outdoor and environmental education circles, as “deer ears”. In Japan, I learned it is called “elephant ears”. We listened to the sounds of the rushing Nippara River and while taking in the views from the Hikawa Big Bridge that spans the river. The rush of the river and dance of rain on our umbrellas gave us a lot of opportunity to take in the sounds.
Fumi followed our time of listening to the river by turning our attention to our breath. She offered some guided breathing. Slowly breathing in, hold, and breathing out slowly. It felt good to fill my lungs with the cool misty, mountain air.
I was reminded to tread carefully along the rooted river trail, allowing myself to notice the feel of the ground under my feet as it changed from roots to moss to soft soil. There was one spot where Fumi confessed, she will get people to unknowingly hug a specific tree so that they can more carefully navigate up and over the tree’s roots. We had a good laugh, as I didn’t need any extra encouragement to hug the massive tree.
We stopped many times to stoop down, not only admire the tiny colourful spring flowers, but to also take in the scent of their leaves, focussing our sense of smell. As we moved along the Hikawa River Valley trail, my five senses were fully alive.
I was happily guided by Fumi to visit the Okuhikawa Shinto Shrine, right in the town of Okutama near the river. I was even more delighted to find that it was right across the street from the welcoming guesthouse I would be staying in that evening. The spirituality of Shintoism that I experienced across Japan aligns deeply with my own sense of reverence for all the beings I met, such as rocks, trees, and waters. I was grateful for the opportunities to stop, bow and to pray often while I have been in Japan. I felt right at home with the honouring of sacred beings. I met ancient trees at the shrine.
We continued our Shinrin-yoku experience as Fumi gently and effortlessly brought me back to my various five senses with her cues. Taking in the sounds and sights at the confluence of Tama River and Nippara River where near a vibrant red bridge were breathtaking. And the rain poured on…
Fumi introduced me to a beautiful flowering tree whose blossoms “smile downwards” to look at us as opposed to up to the sun. I was touched by the poetry of the flower bending to us, and us honouring this to gaze up at them.
The warm glow of Station 1 was a welcome sight, where a smiling Takeshi met us with a delicious, vibrantly flavourful and colourful bento lunch, complete with hot miso soup. I was also grateful for the lovely fancy toilet with all the bells and whistles that included heated seats and various bidet options! It was a perfect welcome after a morning spent in the rain. My taste buds were dancing. I was taken with the simple and beautiful architecture of Station 1. It was modern, but it felt cozy and like it fit with the land. Takeshi shared that Station 1 could accommodate approximately 20 visitors. I appreciated the photographs of local flora and fauna on the walls.
After we left Station 1, we headed up what is known as the Fragrance Road or “Toke Trail”, the first road in Japan to be designed and built for the purpose of Forest Therapy. Fumi and I were greeted by a very special visit from a flying squirrel that lived in the squirrel boxes at the start of the trail. It was hard to get them on our cell phone cameras, but we looked at each other for quite some time!
The Fragrance Road /Toke Trail greeted us with spring flowers. The rain helped to bring out all the fresh smells. At the top of the Fragrance Road/Toke Trail, I was surprised and delighted to discover wooden structures that had been built to help stop erosion from the construction of the trail. The wooden wall provides a comfortable, ergonomic backrest for stargazing and relaxation anytime of the day. I was intrigued by the metal grid-like pattern used for the standing and sitting spots that allowed for the rain to flow through so you wouldn’t get as wet if you sat down. Fumi also pointed out that a monorail had been installed to provide accessibility to those in wheelchairs.
There were even meditation spots that had roofs on them, but open to all three sides, providing both protection and connection. With her gentle cues Fumi continued to ignite my various five senses, including noticing the tiny world and the cycle of life within the surrounding stumps and logs.
She then invited me to have a solo walk to Station 2, which was another surprise where Takeshi greeted us with a welcoming fire glowing from a tiny woodstove. Chairs were placed in front for our teatime which was rosehip-hibiscus, mint and lemon-grass, accompanied by delicious locally hand-made cookies by members of the community living with challenges.
After enjoying tea, I was invited to the viewing window where I caught a glimpse of what I thought might be a raccoon or mink. I was invited to place my ear at the listening hole to notice the sounds of the rain falling and was amazed that someone had specifically thought to construct sound holes for rain. Admittedly, it was hard to leave Station 2, the rains had become a downpour. Honestly, I could have imagined myself happily living there.
Before heading out again, Fumi reminded me that she was carrying bear spray and that the scrapes we had seen earlier on the tree were most likely have been made by a bear, which reminded me that this was still a wild place. I was comforted that she knew all the precautions if we were to encounter a bear. I was thrilled to be in a wild place, and this encouraged me to depart Station 2 and continue our time with the land.
The final part of the journey led me past Station 3, which was closed as it was used mostly for bird viewing. All the birds were tucked into safe spaces due to the rain. Fumi showed me where, during warmer periods, visitors can cool their arms and hands by immersing them in the cooling waters of “arm baths” close to Station 2. Everything on the trail was so thoughtfully choreographed to enhance sensory connection and relaxation, as well as understanding the forest. We continued to the platforms used for yoga and settled into metal lawn chairs used for relaxing. Once again, I rested out in the rain savouring the last bits of my Shinrin-yoku experience.
Fumi guided me back down the other side the mountain past well-tended family gardens. She mentioned that she likes going through the village and we even bumped into a local person whom she took the time to have a conversation with. She explained how important it is to her to build relationships with the people of Okutama as well.
We completed our time back at Station 1, where Takeshi greeted us once again and gave me my Post Health check. My blood pressure and pulse had lowered to 119/69 (pulse 77). They kindly drove me directly to the guest house where I was staying at and referred me to a delicious Ramen restaurant in Okutama.
It was such a wonderful way to complete my experience in Japan. It was a thirty-one year dream come true to visit Japan, and experience a delicious taste of Shinrin- yoku where it originated. I leave grateful, with a deep bow to all that made this experience possible. It has left me with the wish to bring my family to visit Japan, and top of the list is Shinrin-yoku!
Based in Canada, Stana is a certified ANFT Forest Therapy Guide (cohort 6 in 2016) and a trainer (since 2018). She is in her 26th year as a nature educator with Cataraqui Conservation. Stana developed two Professional Development courses for guides: Guiding Forest Therapy for Children & Youth and Guiding Forest Therapy in Winter and Cold Weather. She is passionate about supporting relationship building and nature connection for all ages in all seasons.
Note: Special thanks to Keiko, Takeshi, Fumi, Jim, Anne, Lachlan, Tam, Gio, Mish for your support in creating this reflection.